Romantic, taffetta frou frou, this gala gown by Maria Lucia Hohan inspires the sentimental mood of Firenze at dusk. We meet Leila Russack, the producer and the voice of Miss Zagato to discuss art and fashion in Firenze.
You’ve been in Firenze for some time, what are you doing now?
I’m studying architecture and Renaissance building, and art history. The geometric genius of Filippo Brunelleschi, who spent a year measuring every Roman relic before his capolavoro the Cupola on the Duomo. A man dedicated to his work. I love that Firenze has so many artisans, it’s close to the natural resources that made the buildings of this city. White Carrara marble and Prato Serpentine Green covering the Battisteria and Santa Maria Novella church, ashlar and strong stone for the towers like Palazzo Vecchio and the Bargello. The piazzas command the power of space and tranquility, secret alleyways and wine windows.
Being creative, design came naturally. I’m not interested in AI. I’m interested in natural materials, artisan workmanship in stone, wood, whicker or fabric. I love the life of street art here, my favourites are Blub who put diving goggles on Venus, the original in the Uffizi survived the 1966 Flood of Firenze, and Ache77, he paints with rust on opened spray cans after painting with beautiful stencils around the city.
What are some of your favourite more classical artworks here?
Sandro Botticelli’s Birth of Venus 1485. His lover Simone Vespucci was his model, it has so much of the Renaissance in one painting. It was painted on canvas for a Medici bedchamber at a time when only wooden boards were ‘canvas’. Canvas came from sailing, and Simone’s family included Amerigo Vespucci. The painting portrayed the Pagan Roman goddess of love in a religious allegorical format, which was blasphemy, funded by the Medici. Poet Angelo Poliziano author of Le Stanze, a beautiful transcription of Lucretius’ On the Nature of Things, was poisoned after revealing the secrets of the ancient mason signalling to the popular Catholic priest Savonarola. Savonarola was informed of the subversive cult entering the Church and called for the Bonfire of the Vanities, burning all accoutrements of seduction and irreverence to the Church.
Botticelli’s Birth of Venus is so much more than a beautiful painting, it is the pretty leitmotif of the Renaissance. The subversive power of the Medici, iconic Catholic altarpieces were being replaced with realistic female portrayals of the Virgin Mary, painted from the models of lovers and prostitutes.
The Birth of Venus was the symbol of the Rebirth of the Roman Empire. Along with Michaelangelo’s statue of David, modelled on ancient Greek athlete sculptures, hedonism was being pushed into the psyche of the common good citizen.
Intense! Obviously someone enjoys studying! What is the fashion like in Firenze?
Yes, I always deep dive into everything I do. It was my term paper, I had to cut it in half because the word count was way over! Firenze for fashion, well, I love Pucci, and being in his home town is quite special. Bold colours, striking lines. My standard style in Winter has been a Pucci mini with black wool stockings and turtleneck. Luisa Via Roma always has something cool, the designers like Ann Demeulemeester, The Attico and Rick Owens.
Pitti Uomo week is such a fantastic vibe too. Sharp dressed men in tailored suits smoking cigars. It’s my kind of a week.
What is your aesthetic?
It changes with my mood, the event, the weather, the company. Linen dresses or shorts to catch the sun. A mini skirt with black silhouette for Winter. Gala dresses and Maison de Caftan for film premieres, cocktail dress and heels for cigar aperativo. The trick is to always wear lingerie and good shoes, on top of that you cant go wrong.
What are you working on now?
In between study, I’ve been looking to set up my music studio. I’m desperate to create more Italo disco! My Pallor EP is out mid May on Bandcamp, in time for the Cannes Film Festival. It has a lot of dark themes like questioning unrequited love and state control.
I created it in my analog war bunker studio in London.
What are your favourite spots in Firenze?
Giunti Odeon when they show old films. The bookstore has such intimacy for a cinema, it feels like you’re sneaking in.
Uffizi Gallery for the never ending catalogue of works, including Caravaggio’s Medusa, Artemis Gentileschi’s Judith Slaying Holofernes, Botticelli’s Primavera and Birth of Venus, and the ceilings full of Gothic Grotesques.
Piazza del Duomo is magical at midnight and at sunrise. A marvel of Gothic and Renaissance architecture.
Rivoire Caffe serves Fiesolano, a super strong ristretto espresso that gives me forza for class.
Gucci Caffe for a good dry martini and a quiet cigar, the staff are wonderful and attentive.
Grazie mille, we look forward to your latest album coming out.
Model: Leila Russack @sardinianmermaid
MUAH: Fiore de Firenze
Hair: Chelsea Madison @chelseamadison88 ,
Style: Elena Frassoni @elenafrassoni
Photographer: Elena Frassoni @photo_milan_el
1.
Dress – Maria Lucia Hohan
Fur coat – Dennis Basso Couture
Bag – Chanel
Shoes – Miu Miu
Neck chain – Inga Sirmione
2.
Coat – Max Mara
Top – Ann Demeulemeester
Lingerie – Andreas Sarda
Tweed Trousers – Chanel
Vintage Bag – Chanel Cruise
Shoes – Christian Dior
3.
Dress – Maison Alaia
Bag – Alaia
Belt – Alaia
Shoes – Louis Vuitton
Earrings – Elisabetta Fallaci
Bracelet – Cartier